Levi Strauss & Co has accused Kenzo of trademark infringement. The complaint was filed with San Francisco’s District Court following the release of Kenzo’s Britney Spears collaboration. Levi’s claims that Kenzo copied its design by putting tabs on the back pockets of jeans. The brand claims that Kenzo’s actions will cause “incalculable and irreparable damage”, as reported by Vogue. Levi’s has branded its back pockets since 1936, for “sight identification”.

The lawsuit quotes Christopher Lucier, Levi’s national sales manager in 1936. He said that “no other maker of overalls can have any other purpose in putting a coloured tab on an outside patch pocket”. Kenzo has not responded to the allegation and has not complied with requests to cease-and-desist, with its products still on sale. Kenzo launched its ‘La Collection Momento’ line earlier this year.